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Elite Chrome 200 - where to develop?

Started by elephantwalker, 02/09/2006 03:30AM
Posted 02/09/2006 03:30AM Opening Post
Dear Group,
I am going to use the kodak Elite Chrome 200 slide film for some long exposures of m42. As a first timer, I need some advice on:

length of exposure? I plan on stacking the scanned TIFs.
where should I get it developed?

I am using a Orion 80ED with a Canon EOS at prime focus. f/r is 1/7.5. I am guiding this with a LPI on a APEX 127 through Autostar.

with kind regards,

Posted 02/09/2006 08:03AM #1
I just found Mike Covington's nifty little program, and it indicates that 6 minutes is sufficient for my little scope, elitechrome200, and for m42.

For all who don't know the link, here it is:

I'm going to try the local photo lab to get this (they usually will give a cd with tif files as well as the slides).
Posted 02/09/2006 10:01AM #2
length of exposure? where should I get it developed?

Larry, I would go 10 minutes or even longer. While 6 min will indeed show the nebula, you will not get much of it at f/7. You will however, show more detail in the bright inner core than if you go for the longer exposures.

I shoot at f/4, and even then I find 30 to 40 minutes ideal to capture the fainter outer parts.

If, like you said you will stack, then yes, 6 to 10 minutes should be fine, as long as you shoot 5 to 10 images. I have never done that, as it was too expensive. I just went for the one, long shot. If you are having someone else scan and transfer to CD.. that can get very expensive real quick. I would definitely ask if you can SEE your slides before they transfer, so you can use a loop (magnifier) and only select the ones worth transferring. You do not need to pay for a CD scan and transfer for a slide with trails or out of focus.

As for where to get them done? I would try and find a small company who develops film / slides LOCALY, so you can go in and talk to them personally. Tell them NOT to cut the negatives and slides until after you have looked at them. They always CUT through your images, as they can not tell where one slide ends and the next begins. And this way, you can also toss out the bad ones, rather then pay for scanning and CD transfer.

When you start to get really involved in this, consider a Minolta Dimage slide scanner. They are great and you can get them on eBay.

Focus is the second most common problem with 35mm film photography. You should always use a tool to achieve focus, as your eyes will bring into focus an image that in reality is not. I use an STI Stiletto. Some use a Hartman mask.

The biggest problem, done over and over, is people who think you can correct Declination drift during a guided shot. This is just not true. Declination error is Polar Alignment error, and it will accumulate with each "correction" you make. in reality, every time you touch the DEC control, you are introducing rotation to the camera, not putting the camera back on track, as with RA corrections. The solution - Get your polar alignment down to the point where you see NO drift in at least 10 minutes with the drift method.

Good luck!


Posted 02/09/2006 12:44PM #3
One more thing... M42 is better with Fujichrome 400F Provia vs Kodak E200.
The reason is Provia is MUCH better at capturing the faint BLUES in M42, and still does a great job at the reds. E200 is poor blue response. Here's my shot of M42 with Provia. It's a single 40 minute shot with a Meade LXD75 8" f/4 SN.


Attached Image:

Clownfish's attachment for post 100722
Posted 02/09/2006 03:21PM | Edited 02/09/2006 03:25PM #4
Hi Lawrence,

I take my slides to Wal-Mart to get developed. In other words, developers can't really screw up developing slides like they can color negatives.

As for exposure time. Yes, take a 8 minute shot or so to get the brightest parts of the region. However, do a 60-minute exposure as well to capture the fainter might think this is a long time, but it's not for an autoguider and a nebula. 60-minutes is actually on the short side for an f/7.5 system, but it's a start.


edit: make that 8-minutes like 10 or 15 minutes....and take two of them in case one screws up. Take two or more of the 60-minute as well. Get as much exposure time on the film as you won't regret it, especially if your autoguider is doing a good job and the atmospheric conditions are good. Bring spare batteries for your camera ^_^