Posts Made By: John A. Maher

Well it is no where near where I want it to be but the first image shows off how good the now discontinued FL FSQ really was/is.

No subtractions and I let Max do an Auto on the align so it is definitely ruff

10 minutes in CS, fair seeing and light haze.

I just wanted to see something "LOL"

Comments/advise aways welcome

I used a 60 min Ha for my lum and then added some color; 10 minutes each.

No Subtractions but I did play with it a lot in CS

I did not mess with the green line to the upper right of the nebula and have know idea what caused it. It is in the HA and color channels??? :S

If you mess with the saturation in PS it shows up as a funky green beam .


Suggestions welcome

I have been starting to experiment with "NOT" aligning images I take in the same evening and believe that the finished product is better

I would love to hear some other thoughts on this.

My thinking is if i did not have an issue with guiding why bother and I confirm this with the align function in MaxIm using the overlay radio button. I thought perhaps field rotation might creep in but my last session went till 5A with no issue.

My Optima D43M which is now almost 2 years old ran my entire rig all night. What a great investment that has turned out to be.

Yes this past summer was a blurr

Way too much work and no time for the extras

Thankfully I like my job

Anyhoo

Were back and teching my new to me FSQ (FL)which I bought this past spring

No subs or alignment (yet)

I would like to here from anyone regarding tips to better exposure the dust lanes

I also bought the rotator for the FSQ and will be attempting my first multi image wide screen pic for my LCD TV and any alignment/combining tips for those of us that must set up every night would be greatly appreciated

Image so far is 6 min G and B 12 R and 18 L

I am practicing some new processing techniques that I was recently shown by some Amarters and would be interested in comments

I think I need to go back and do a flat. I want to better show the finer whispy areas that surround the cloud but the noise in that area prevents me from high lighting it.

My concern is the point where it is not longer an actual image but art

IE: when do you stop

California Nebula

120m HA with 20m per color binned
FSQ (FL) ST2000

Thanks for looking and thanks for all your help so far

I shot this with my FS78 a few years ago and decided to revist it with the FSQ.

I notice a lot of comments regarding different color saturations levels in images viewed here

I have seen that my own images look very different on other monitors. I own a small business and can view my images on at least six different monitors each with its own color sensitivities not unlike the cameras we use to capture images.

Does anyone know how to adjust a monitor so it is at least close to correct. I would assume there has to be a standard.

I have to date owned 3 of the Tak 50mm finders.

They are in my humble opinion "unquestionably the best finder available" and the views are better then some scopes.

The maximum reticule illumination of my newest one however is really very low. The two previous to this one were considerably brighter.

Does anyone know if this is adjustable or did I just get unlucky.

I would also like to hear if there is another way other then taking apart something pretty much new. I believe the problem is the center of the reticule hairs is not aligned with the LED. I checked them and they are far from where I would expect and it seems like the glass they are on needs to go back towards the eyepiece to center them with the LED.

It is so dim that I have to run the illuminater at maximum to see anything at all and this kills the battery in short order.

The cold weather is making it even worst.
Thank you

Hi KP

I am in agreement with the GEM supporters. The Vixen GP should work fine for visual (GPDX for photos). Don't buy a cheap mount otherwise you will be disappointed. The GP sells on Amart for around 4 to 5 hundred used, you could try it for a year and then sell it for almost what you paid, (Buy it new and you will lose money on resale). I owned a GP and used a R200SS for photos on it before moving up to a Tak EM 200. The Mewlons are great for the visual stuff but wouldn't recommend learning Astrophotography with one. It is possible but with a focal lenght of 2160mmn (1763mm with a reducer) you will definitely learn the hard way. Especially if it's your first GEM.

John

Found it Thank you Lukeman

The size is 71mm x 1.00 pitch for Mewlon 210

This was on a post from "Art Ciampi \(Texas Nautical Repair \)"