Backlash removal in RA for LXD75 - HELP!!

I'm having a lot of trouble removing worm mesh backlash and slop from my LXD75's RA axis. No matter what I try, I can't get it right. There is no worm shaft backlash, as I've adjusted the shaft correctly with the brass collar, however the gear mesh problem still remains.

It seems that no matter how I adjust the 3 hex head bolts, along with the two rear attachment bolts of the worm shaft housing, there is always lateral play whenever the axis is rotated East or West. For example, I can adjust all 5 bolts to reduce lateral play when the mount saddle is pointed West. I can spin the aluminum RA worm gear freely, but once the saddle has rotated to the point where its now facing East (rotated 180 degrees), I can feel it begin to bind, and rotation of the aluminum gear becomes difficult.

If I adjust the worm housing so that the aluminum transfer gear spins freely when the saddle is pointed West, and no slop is observed, once the RA axis has reach the polar home position and the saddle starts to rotate towards the East, there is now backlash present.

It almost seems as if the notched cylinder which the worm mates too isn't completely centered within the RA housing, and becomes apparent 180 degrees apart in rotation, or the cylinder itself isn't perfectly circular, rather being slightly oval.

I'm running out of ideas here, and I hope someone can help. If the wprm housing adjustment is left in such a way that the aluminum transfer gear spins freely without binding, there is always some backlash or lateral movement present in the RA axis, and can become highly problematic focusing at high magnification. The image will literal jump up and down in the eyepiece with the movement of the focuser.

Please help! I'm running out patience....

James when you back off the center bolt a 1/8 of a turn and run the two outside adjsuting bolts in you may have gotten it out of line with the RA gear. Kinda of like maybe the left adjusting bolt is a 1/8 turn difference to the right one. Could have come from the factory that way and your adjusting keeps it out of line. I am just guessing on that but besides someting as you have mentioned that is all I came come up with. My orginal LXD55 I spent 20 some hours hypertuning it, half was trying to get the mesh right for zero play without binding. For some reason my LXD75 took a total of 20 minutes to accomplish the same feat. Maybe my LXD55 ws suffering the same problem as yours and I just finally got lucky and hit the sweet spot. I would try backing out everything but the two outside mounting bolts and start over, think I did that a dozen times with the LXD55. If that doesn't work I would dissassemble it and check the RA aluminum gear for out of round are bad cut grooves.