BIG DOB VS AN APO

I AM ABOUT 4 MONTHS INTO THE HOBBY AND HAVE GONE FROM A 3 INCH MEADE DS 2000 REFRACTOR, TO AN XT8I ORION, TO NOW A XT10I ORION.
I LIVE IN STATEN ISLAND, NEW YORK WHERE LIGHT POLUTION IS A PROBLEM
I DONT HAVE MUCH TO COMPARE WITH WHAT I HAVE SEEN, BUT
OTHER THEN LOOKING AT THE MOON, THE SEVEN SISTERS, AND MAYBE THE WILD DUCK CLUSTER SATURN HAS LOOKED UNIMPRESSIVE, VERY WAVEY, AND MOST OF THE NEBULAS HAVE BEEN DIM SMUDGES.
I DONT KNOW IF MY EXPECTATION LEVEL IS TOO HIGH OR NOT
I KEEP BEING TOLD THAT APERTURE IS EVERYTHING AND THE MOST IMPORTANT.
BUT WHY DO PEOPLE SPEND 3X THE MONEY ON THESE APO TYPE REFRACTORS.
THERE IS SOMETHING VERY APPEALING ABOUT THEM TO ME.
HOW WOULD A 4" OR MAYBE 5" APO COMPARE TO MY XT10I?
I KNOW THEY ARE MUCH MORE EXPENSIVE.
TAKING INTO CONSIDERATION WHERE I LIVE , OF COARSE. AM I CRAZY
I WOULD RATHER SEE LESS, BUT WHAT I SEE BE GREAT THEN SEE MORE AND WHAT I SEE BE SOSO.
HELP

First of all, there's no need to SHOUT. The CAPS LOCK key isn't for writing plain text.

Secondly, be patient. An APO will not turn these dim smudges into anything but even dimmer smudges - work on your averted vision, dark adaptation (shield yourself from stray light, even in light polluted environments) and take your scope to a dark site if you can.

If you have lots of light pollution and want to look at emission nebulae, get an OIII filter and observe close to zenith.

As far as a wavy Saturn is concerned, wait until it's high in the sky. Work on your collimation skills. Make sure the mirror is cooled, and possibly equip your Dob with a fan.

Analyse the problem. Then only solve it. Throwing hardware at it blindly won't fix anything.

There are many reasons for a 6" APO, but you haven't convinced me yet any of them apply to you. And one of those doesn't tend to be easier to set up than a 10" Dob.

Alexis and Dave's suggestions are sound.

It seems like you're still figuring out your viewing interests.

There are lots of variables to consider. I had a 8" SCT for years...which served me well. I had a chance to look through
some decent refractors (6" D&G, and AP) at star parties, and though I liked the contrasty views and impressive magnification on the planets, I realized I preferred to spend my time looking at DSO's. I also realized that I needed to plan more regular trips out to dark sites. I think this is one of the most under-rated aspects of viewing... getting to dark skies on a regular basis. I know some people can't, but I think many people don't put enough time and research into it.

Also, check out one of your local astronomy clubs to see if there are any star parties coming up. I'll bet there's at least a couple of folks who own a larger dob and a decent APO in your area.

My neighbor! Yes, I am in Queens and I feel the pain. My thoughts...

1. Read and learn. Observing judgement and skill are your best friends. Get Rod's book like was mentioned here, and Nighwatch by Dickerson.
2. Go with aperture. I went from a 4 to 8 to 10 to 12. Never regretted any of the choices. With aperture in the city you can get NICE views of globular and open clusters. You can even see a few planetary nebula.
3. Get GOTO or DSCs. Cant starhop when you cant see anything to hop off.
4. If your going for the planets, you could get a nice modest 80 - 100mm ED scope, but a SCT or a Mak Cass will do just fine also. Forget APOs and the like for anything DSO-like. I have a fairly nice Vixen 140NA. Use to have a WO 105mm Zenithstar. My Vixen and WO was like some guy's 30mm finder in Nebraska.
5. Don't drop big money into a nice mount unless you need it.

My perfect scope for beginners in NYC -- a used C8 on a non-goto GEM mount, or a Meade 8" SN on the lxd75 mount.

- Peter

If you are a visual astronomer, then go with the dobs; otherwise, he apo will be easier to manage and will work well with a camera.