Final word on MN66 for imaging.

Well, tonight I took the MN66 out to the back and set it up with the new focuser (JMI DX3 1.6" low profile) which is what the scope had originally.

I also installed the new CFW-9 color filter wheel on the SBig ST200xm. This filter wheel added 3/8" to the in focus alone over the manual Atik filter wheel. Total additional in focus travel was 7/8" compared to the way it came to me used with a replacement focuser.

Well, even with all this the scope was shy at least another 1/4" of achieving focus. So, I believe that there is no way to gain any more in focus without modifying the scope and with it using a corrector plate, I am not sure that you can actually shorten the tube without some problems with the optics.

So, I have to report that it is my opinion that the MN66 is not acceptable for imaging unless you are using a camera without a filter wheel, like a one shot color or a mono shooting with filters mounted to the nose of the camera, requiring you to remove the camera and replace the filter for each filter change. Needless to say, this is not my idea of a good time.

I will now try to find a buyer for it as a [COLOR="Red"]VISUAL INSTRUMENT[/COLOR] and not an imaging scope. I would assume that it is a very competent scope for this purpose as I have read many good reviews stating how it is excellent for this.

Now I will just concentrate on refractors from now on I guess. If I buy another reflector, it will be one that is guaranteed to come to focus with normal cameras and equipment.

I write this so that others can learn from my experience. Though I was assured that the scope would work and that this model has been used for imaging (not the seller, he said that he did not know), I can only assume that the people who did use it used mono or one shot color cameras for their images.

This has been an expensive and trying experience for me. Cost me over $1600 to find this out, so I really feel that this information is important enough that I decided to post it.

I had a very hard time finding any information regarding the MN66 and imaging. No real photos that I could find and even less data about setting one up for imaging.

If you decide to try this yourself, just remember that I did tell you what the limitations were with this scope.

Floyd,
Thank you for that report. While the information has no specific relevance to my set-up, I do find that forums such as these are best served when users share their own hard-earned learnings. We all are constantly benefitting from the experience of each other whether we have an immediate application for that information or not. It is what makes it a community (and, thanks to Ivan, this one always feels more like a community than most).
Regards,
Larry

Hey Floyd,

Would this work for someone that uses a DSLR? I don't know enough about DSLR imaging but if it would work, that would be a good market to target for the scope...

Just a thought my friend - sorry to hear about your troubles.... but I am sure that your luck will dramatically turn around once you start imaging with your new rig! We are all waiting for your next set of posts with your new camera!

Good luck my friend,

Hi Floyd,

Sorry to hear about your MN66. Thank you for sharing though, as info like this is valuable to others.

Eric

Hi Floyd,

I was able to have some imaging success with an APM 160mm MN, however I was using a Starlight Xpress camera and a True Tech filter wheel. It was very close however, I had to have the adapter that connected the filter wheel and the camera custom machined to allow the combo to work and at that I probably had no more that 2-3 threads holding them together and maybe 2mmm to spare for in focus travel. I think there are filter drawers that you can use to save room. Today I am using an 8" Mak Cass and have no problems with backfocus. Here is an image taken with the APM setup:

http://www.rwstanley.com/ngc_7635_color2.htm

Take care,
Ron

Hmmm,what an expensive lesson in backfocus requirements :C

With the right focuser it may just work but as you pointed out,that is another very large expense.

At this point why not try moving the primary as far up as you can with the collimation screws,with the chip size in the ST2000 you don't need to have a huge corrected image circle,it may be good enough for the camera?

Sorry this looks like it may not work out for you Floyd

Jason