Posts Made By: Mike Swaim

Another great resource is Astromart supporter Surplus Shed. They have some good soft binocular cases in their closeout section. There's a link to them off the Amart home page.

Mike Swaim

I've got a dumb question for you, and then some that may not be so dumb. Are you sure that your Bogen tripod is a "3030". I've got a 3030 "head" for one of the Bogens, but don't know of a tripod by that designation. Could you maybe have a 3021, 3033, or 3036 tripod? Does it have a geared center column?

Next up, is a geared center column worth it to you in terms of added weight in exchange for MUCH easier height adjustment? How far are you thinking of carrying the total rig, and under what conditions? How important is veiwing at zenith to you, and will you mostly be standing or sitting? The more that you can tell about *exactly* what you want to do, the better chance that you'll actually get relevent answers.

Mike Swaim

Good review, Alan.
A couple, or a few years ago, I wanted to replace a stolen Nikon Travelite 10x25 pocket bino. I did, what has to be, my most exhaustive hands-on bino shopping spree ever to find just exactly the right pocket bino. After visiting something like a dozen birding, camera, and hunting stores to try every possible mini-bino that I could wrap my hands around, and after trying almost 30 models of different mini-bins, the search yielded (4) binoculars that I thought were outstanding enough to merit serious consideration. They were the Nikon Special Edition 7x15 micro bino, the Leica BC 8x20 micro-bino, and the Minox BR 8x24 and the Minox BD 8x24 P mini-binos.

Cost WAS an issue, (as always) and I really wasn't interested in spending over $100-$150US. That ruled out the most excellent Nikon Special Editions and the stunning little Leica BC 8x20s. So, that left the Minox roofies vs. the Minox inverted porros. I decided on the Minox porros, but it wasn't an easy decision. Each had merits. The inverted porros struck me as brighter, but they almost failed the primary mission requirement, in that they are just bulky enough to almost fail "shirt-pocketability", and that was the whole reason I was shopping for micro-bins in the first place.

I used them a lot when I first got them, but tired of their extremely small diameter neck cord and the eye strain that they induced compared to more normal 8x30 bins. It's been awhile since I really made use of the little Minox, but I do believe that Minox makes some very remarkable binoculars that are too often overlooked. Their 8x32 and 8.5x42 BD series are some of the best values in roofies in the whole market. Sometimes I wonder if I would've stuck with the littlest Minox if I'd gone for the shirt-pocketable roofie versions instead of the inverted porros. The problem with any of the inverted porro prism micro bins is that they are almost as bulky and weighty as larger, more competent roofies. The exception would be the simply amazing Nikon Special Edition standard porros in true micro size, which literally put world class optics into a vest pocket. But as good as they are, they aren't really condusive to birding or any intensive study of a subject just sheerly due to their diminutive size. When one factors in cost and size the Minox mini-roofies in the BR series are really pretty amazing. Actually, from all the models I've so far seen in the BR series, it's a very amazing lineup.

Like you mentioned, I discovered that the little Minox would actually focus a bit closer than anticipated. These dinky inverted porros will more or less focus to 4 ft. These are quite good, quite overlooked mini-binos that more folks should try and consider. They are subject to all of the limitations of mini-binoculars, but are of a quality a good bit above the mainstream and they represent a very solid value.

Mike Swaim

Some of the more unusal binoculars I've seen in the field would include:

Leica 8x20-- As previously mentioned, these are the SOLE binocular of a hardcore birding enthusiast who's logged over 500 species in the US alone.

Mystery East Euro 6x30 indiv. e.p. focus porros -- The really odd thing about these, aside from being indiv. e.p. focus, was WHO had them. I met an elderly German birder who had a VERY well used set of these as his travel bino. Looking at this gent's clothing, luggage and overall style, it was clear that he could've easily afforded something better, more modern and easier to use. When I asked about them he just chuckled and said that they were "friends" and knew where the birds were. Was that an indirect comment about wide fields and clear optics? I don't know.

Bushnell 10x50 porros -- What makes these an unusal choice is the woman that shows up regularly with these as her only birding glass. For one thing, she wears thick bifocals and uses them with the eyecups extended. I've tried mentioning to her that she'd have a much better view if she'd fold back the eyecups, but she likes them the way she uses them. The other thing about this choice is that when her orig. set developed focuser problems, she actually sent them back to Bushnell. They, in turn, sent her 2 brand new 10x50 binos, so now she & her husband ea. have a set. The final thing that makes this whole rather odd choice worth mentioning is that despite using optics that many of us wouldn't own if they were free, and despite not even using them in a manner that's consistant with getting the most of them, this woman is actually a very good birder. Go figure.

Nikon SE 12x50 porros -- My own choice of gear for most fairweather outings; Oddly, though these are small and light and exceptionally bright in comparison to most 10x50's, and though they rival some 60mm scopes in terms of what they can bring to the eye, I've never seen anybody but myself using these for birding.

Orion 9x63 MGs -- Twice, I've met folks using these in the field. In both cases the users indicated that they got them for am. astro. but found them to be useful for birds and sports as well. I had an older set of these when I 1st got into astro. but quickly sold them when they didn't have the edge performance that I craved.

Pentax 16x60 PCF -- I thought that I might be fairly unusal when I got a set of these for a combo of waterfowling, hawking and backyard astro. Well, I quickly sold them due to a too narrow FOV, but since then, I've seen both 16x60's and mounted 20x60's in use by birders. Recently, there was even a thread about using these binos on a birding email list that I subscribe to. On the Desparately Seeking Binoculars site, expert Ken Rosenberg mentions his fondness for the discontinued WWII era Zeiss 15x50s.

more fuel for the fire...
Mike Swaim

That's a very interesting photo for a couple reasons. One, I believe it to be a juvenile light morph phase. It's so light, that it's just possible it might be the Krider's variation, but I certainly don't know enough about it to even suggest that. The other really interesting thing is how squared off the lower primaries are compared to the upper wing. I guess it could just be camera angle, but it really does make it look striking. Anyway, keep up the good work.

Mike Swaim

Thanks for all the quick answers.

Kevin, I particularly appreciate your explanation of just what broadband coating is. I also like your very practical explanation comparing broadband to other coatings. I'm confused by the reference to bb and ebc showing smudges more readily, though. I guess I would have thought that smudges and fingerprints were basically univeral. It's weird to think that different coatings may affect how what amounts to oils deposited on the glass are perceived. Anyway, I won't dwell on that. I also really like that comprehensive binox comparo chart you've put up on your website. What's this I read about a 22x100? That would be cool.

Mike Swaim

Those look like image stabilized binox. Is that the backpacking rig?

Qiao Chen,
Brightness, resolution and contrast are all separate things from color rendition in optics. A good example is that in high end optics, Leica and Nikon are considered to be color neutral, while Swarovski used to be known for offering a "warmer" or more color tinted view. All make optics that are supreme in terms of resolution. People's perceptions about how this coloration of the image affects resolution and contrast tend to vary widely with the individual, but when folks are really comparing these ideas as separate concepts, they can generally be seen as completly separate issues. Brightness, is largely a function of obj. diameter and magnification, coupled with coatings.

For what it's worth, if you're looking for color neutral views, you might look at various models of binoculars from brands such as Minox and *some* Nikon and even Swift Audubon.

Actually, Qiao Chen, I've got a better idea for you. Rather than have us describe all the possible bins that are colorfree or colorful, why don't you tell us what size bins you want and what you want them for? There's a surprising amount of owner experience to be had on this forum if you ask the right questions.

Ed & Kevin,
You guys might get a kick out of this. I concur with Kevin about Russian binox. Anyway, after trying a ridiculous number of various bins, one of the sets that I keep is a set of 7x50 Tentos Russian binox. They were made in the USSR back when that was still possible. They are ridiculously heavy and bulky and tint everything quite yellow. But, get this: when it's dawn or dust or flat out night, and I want to differentiate Bambi from the trees around her, these jumbo Soviet glasses will do it in a way that only the previous Steiner Night Hunters in 7x50 could do it. The Tentos cost me $40 on Astromart, whereas I sold the Steiners at an extreme loss for 10x that amount. And the Tentos are center focus, whereas the Steiners were indiv. focus. I've never seen a set of 7x50s that were as bulky or weighed as much. And I've never seen another set of binox that were the equivalent of looking through those "Blue Blocker" sunglasses that were all the rage a decade ago, but for what these Tentos are, they are somewhat amusing. Still, there's something about the coatings or the optics on them that means that Jupiter is a blob, while the stars are contrasty pin points. I've had similar experience with 2 other Russian binox in different sizes. They're simply weird!

Regards,
Mike Swaim

I have no experience with those for astronomy, however the brief daytime looks that I had through a set completely turned me off to them.

I ran into a fellow down at the coast that had the giant Steiners set up at the beach on a large video tripod. He said he used them for looking for whales, dolphins and ships at sea. He was most happy to accomodate, when I asked if I could peak through them. At the time, there weren't any whales, but there were plenty of diving Northern Gannets. Normally, the adult northern gannet is a large, sleek white bird with just a hint of yellow-orange on it's head and a great, huge wingspan tipped in black. It has a tendancy for spectacular vertical dives into the water, and is really a fun bird to watch.

However, when I tracked a couple gannets in the Steiners, the range of colors around the bright white birds was bizarre to say the least. There were both purple and yellow
tint chromatic abberations. It was MUCH worse chromatic aberation than in my Fujinon FMT-SX 16x70, and I find the extra colors in the Fujis objectionable on Jupiter and the Moon. Admittedly, I didn't have the Fujis with me for a side-by-side comparison, but I can only imagine what the Steiners would show on astro targets.

I tried aiming the Steiners at a black cormorant on a red buoy, and the extra colors disappeared. But, having seen what they do to bright white, I don't believe I'd want to spend that kind of money on them. Like all Steiner products, I believe them to be quite overrated and very overpriced. Obviously, I didn't tell that to the kind gentleman that allowed me to come to that conclusion. I just thanked him, and wandered off down the beach with my 10x50s.

Mike Swaim

I've been wondering why nobody ever took that approach ever since the Mak invasion began several years ago. However, after owning 3 Mak scopes, one concern that I'd have about those would be cool down times. The cool down time for my 6" Intes Micro M603 was measured in hours, not minutes, and at the end of that time it still behaved more like a 4" APO refractor than a 6". So, my questions to you, Markus, would be how long does that 6" Mak binoscope take to cool down 20* C, and how does it compare to some of the best 100mm refractive binos? I look forward to reading an observing report from that very interesting binoscope. I'd also be very curious about tech specs on it, including who makes it.

Thanks very much for your answers and for yet, another very cool APM product.
Regards,
Mike Swaim