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Sculptor Galaxy (NGC 253)

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Posts Made By: Paul Hyndman

November 28, 2003 09:32 PM Forum: Equipment Talk

4 Hole Aperture Mask

Posted By Paul Hyndman

"The 4 holes are superimposed one upon the other like stacked images taken with a camera when brought to focus. Because of this it actually acts like a one hole mask."

Ummmm, Nope... it DOES NOT act as a "one-holed" (AKA aperture) mask!

Multi-holed (AKA Hartmann mask/Scheiner disk) masks are *ONLY* used for focusing and are removed for viewing or imaging with good reason: the images they produce are extremely sensitive to changes in focus normally encountered.

About multi-holed masks:

Each opening acts as an individual off-axis telescope, producing its own unique image. As an eyepiece (or camera, etc.) is moved closer or further from focus, the OA image will move across the field of view. This is most apparent when the OA image source is a point source of light (a star).

Focusing a single image can be ambiguous (more forgiving!), as there is often some latitude or "sweet" spot where small changes seem to have little or no effect. When multiple OA images are used (ie; from a multi-holed focusing mask), the center of each focused "sweet-spot" (even if it is difficult to tell where each individual one might be) intersect at one unique point, (drum roll please...) "Critical Focus"!

So... here's the scenario: However many holes you have, you'll have separate images when out of focus. As you approach focus, those images converge. When you have a single image, Voilá, you have attained Critical Focus.

Thus the very attributes that make them ideal as focusing aids (diverging images), usually make them ill-suited for use as aperture masks. If left in place, any small changes in focus will cause the individual images to diverge (smear!)

But hey, if it works for ya', use it! shocked)

Ciao,

Paul

--- http://www.astro-nut.com ---


November 28, 2003 10:40 PM Forum: Coronado-Lunt-DayStar Solar Filters

MaxScope EP Query

Posted By Paul Hyndman

I'm not sure how far you can push the Maxscope 40, though I regularly use a 12mm CEMAX EP on my 1036mm fl SM90 equipped scope (yielding about 86X).

I actually prefer lower-powered full-disk shots, but it is fun to bump up the power now and then when conditions will support it.

Cheers,

Paul

--- http://www.astro-nut.com ---


December 5, 2003 05:23 PM Forum: Coronado-Lunt-DayStar Solar Filters

Coronado PST on Anacortes Website!

Posted By Paul Hyndman

Welcome to the light side of the universe, Dave! shocked)

Paul

--- http://www.astro-nut.com ---


January 10, 2004 07:43 PM Forum: Coronado-Lunt-DayStar Solar Filters

Coronado SolarMax 60

Posted By Paul Hyndman

The H-a filter/blocking filter combination tightly (very tightly!) controls the
bandpass/bandwidth. I suppose that if an additional filter tighter than say 1 angstrom at
656.28nm (ie: a second H-a filter) was properly positioned you'd reduce the bandwidth and
get an increase in contrast. Friends using stacked <0.7ang filters report reaching the
neighborhood of about <0.5 ang.


Using a non-Ha filter (ie: neutral density filter) would only serve to knock down the
signal level (reduce the light), not really a desirable thing to do, as you can accomplish
more by simply reducing the exposure. The faster you can capture the image (exposure
wise at a given ISO), the better, as you can freeze the atmospheric nasties.

Although increasing surface contrast, a caveat to tightening the bandwidth is that
prominences start to lose a noticeable amount of fullness around 0.5ang, becoming thin
wispy strings as the bandpass is lowered (proms tend to "spill over" the 656.28nm
target frequency, and blue-shift/red-shift increases the spread even moreso).

Paul


Image via a <0.7ang filter/blocker. Info: http://www.astro-nut.com/sun-ha-08nov02.html



January 17, 2004 12:04 AM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System

LCD focus

Posted By Paul Hyndman

Yeah... but critical focus is far easier to determine when a larger display device is used.

Non-DSLR type digital cameras (those with non-removable lenses and real-time LCD displays) typically will provide a video-out jack which can be hooked up to an external display monitor (or laptop, etc) such as is seen below.

Used in conjunction with a multi-holed focusing mask, the display can really nail down critical focus!

Paul

(further info on this focusing screen: http://www.astro-nut.com/interact.html )


January 20, 2004 07:01 PM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System

One more Saturn

Posted By Paul Hyndman

Superb image Wes... thanks for sharing!

Paul


January 21, 2004 01:13 AM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System

M42 - 300d first light.

Posted By Paul Hyndman

Great shot Jake... looks this camera/scope combination is gonna' provide you with a load of fun!

Thanks for sharing!

Paul

February 6, 2004 09:42 PM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Solar System

Opinions on Astro-printer

Posted By Paul Hyndman

Hi Chris,

Rather than steer you towards a specific printer (though I have an Epson 2200 and LOVE it...
the 13x19 UltraChromes are incredible!), I would suggest that even with your current
printer you will get the best results by *correctly* setting the profiles for your system.

These assure your monitor has been properly calibrated (what you see is exactly what any
other calibrated monitor sees... no lighter, no darker, and every color precisely
interpreted), your scanner properly interprets what is presented to it, and your
printer prints EXACTLY what you see on your monitor with a given paper. In other words,
ALL the devices are playing TOGETHER on the same field.

You might be surpised too, how much deviation can exist by using non-OEM inks or papers.
I had used the highest quality Kodak papers, only to get "pizza-wheel" marks and
color shifting from my UltraChrome Epson prints. Come to find out that Epson specified
papers had coatings that allowed their UltraChrome inks to dry more rapidly. I switched
back to their own papers and Voilá... problem solved!

Printers that support individual ink tanks (a separate cartridge for each color) can be
tremendously less expensive to operate than many "benchmark" tests might indicate, as a
multi-colored cartridge needs to be tossed when one of the colors is depleted. Not so with
something like the Epson 2200, which will run until a tank is completely empty, and even
allow you to change that individual color in the middle of a print with seamless results.

Another point you may wish to ponder is do you want those (possibly) fantastic looking prints
to last for 6 months before they fade into oblivion? Seven months? Or for many, many years?
Archivable inks and papers will assure they look as crisp and vibrant in ten years as the
day they were originally printed. Limit your search to those printers that support
archivability, and you will not be cursing the results later on down the road!

Perhaps there is a reason why superb printers seem to abound at reasonable prices...
the manufacturers make their bread and butter not by the selling printers, but by selling
expendable commodities: ink and paper! shocked)

Cheers,

Paul

PS: Scenes like this recent "Orions Sword" look stunning when printed in 13" x 19" format!

(image info at: http://www.astro-nut.com/m42-03dec25.html )


February 28, 2004 11:14 PM Forum: Coronado-Lunt-DayStar Solar Filters

2-27 Prominence from New Orleans

Posted By Paul Hyndman

Nice shot Barry, and it DOES look like a skull...Woooooo!!! shocked)

Thanks for sharing!

Paul





March 2, 2004 07:50 PM Forum: Equipment Talk

Astrophysics Traveller

Posted By Paul Hyndman

No hints here, just a quick note to congratulate you on your new arrival... CONGRATULATIONS!!! shocked)

I got a Traveler from a fellow Astromarter this past autumn, and love it! Having been waiting for an AP155 since June of '99, I decided to get this previously loved Traveler while waiting for my name to come up on that list).


Paul

(Traveler image info: http://www.astro-nut.com/m42-03dec25.html )