Posts Made By: Geoff DAHL

Thanks for the replies!

RE the 12->18 conversion, I was thinking of running it on 12V. I was mostly wondering which 12V power supply to use. Sounds like using one rated at 1A would work.

Thanks again.

-Geoff

My images don't compare well to some of the ones here, but you can look at
http://www.dahl.to/Astronomy/Saturn/2004.01.19/Saturn%202004.01.19.htm

To see both a stacked and raw image. (Page is set for DSL speed (lots of data) so it may be slow on a 56K. )

-Geoff

Thanks to everyone with thier responces. (Sorry for the late reply, work interfeared with my life :-)

To answer a couple of the questions, I have a newer LX200 GPS, not the classic. I guess i should have also separated what I meant by alignments. First I need to get the scope polar aligned. (Thanks for all the pointers,tips). Then there is the alignment for setting up the computer. (Calibrating the Goto...?) It was this computer align I am/was using the 2 star method on. (hoping that the computer could help correct for any errors in the polar align process)

When I go to align the computer (as opposed to the polar alignment), the controller offers easy, 1 star and 2 star aligns. I was using the 2 star hoping that it would be more accurate. It sounds like I should just be using the 1 star align? Is that right? It sounds like the erros in the goto are more the problem of the polar alignment than the computer setup.

As for the drift alignemnt, when observing from my backyard, I only have about a 60 deg field of view in the E-W direction. (big trees) I am not sure that a drift alignment would work with the E/W star choice at least 60 deg from the E/W horizon. Anyone know? What if I picked a star closer to polaris (dec) but in an eastern orientation? (RA)

Clear Skies!

-Geoff

I went with the 300D (mostly due to price) and am happy with it. The one thing I did notice is that it does not have the mirror lock while the 10D does. The 10D also has a more robust body.

I have been playing with one and like it a lot. I have been mostly successful on bright objects, but If I could get my guiding setup working I can probably get fainter objects. I bought a 75-300 mm zoom lense and that works great as piggyback as well.