Posts Made By: John A. Maher

Hi Raymond,

I checked my EM200 and it does not do the same thing.

It sounds to me like you need a service.

I would contact Art at TNR

Art Ciampi (Texas Nautical Repair )
[[email protected]]

http://www.lsstnr.com/main_contact.htm

Good luck

John

8) NICE! 8)
8) 8) -PIC- 8) 8)


Have you had any luck stacking ?

John

Hi Jim,

In my opinion the Mewlon 210 is one of the best buys in the Tak line. There are some compromises but it's almost half the price of the M250 and only 40 mm smaller.

As for the views I will say "refracter like with spikes"

The construction is beautiful. It's also one of the nicest looking telescopes I have ever seen. At 8" its very light and does't require a major mount.

The focuser is my only complaint (well there is my major complaint regarding internet support from the manufacturer regarding all Takahashi products. You'll find a better site from the manufacturer of gumball machines) Opps sorry about the rant. Well back to the focuser. I see Kent has upgraded to a Tak focuser and I know Gary has also added an after market focuser. Mirror shift isn't really bad as far I can tell but it's just not sensitive enough especially for any kind of CCD work.

As far as the scope being condition sensitive I have also experienced this and have heard that this is common with 10" scopes (anyone seeing this with the 250). Maybe the M210 thinks it's 10" scope. Gary have you noticed this on your 180.

Cool down was a little longer then I had expected for an open system but I think that it's due to the Mirror mass. About an hour coming from inside my home.


I highly recommend these scopes and would like to hear from anyone who was ever disappointed by the views, quality, or value of these scopes. The lack of a decent site from the manufacturer is more then adequately handled by fellow Amarters, TNR, Anacortes staff, and the Yahoo users group. Thanks guys

John

Hi Bill,

The instuctions at the site read;

"All models are composed of [COLOR="Red"]two detachable parts[/COLOR]: a [COLOR="Blue"]T-adapter for prime-focus photography[/COLOR], and an extension tube for eyepiece-projection photography. A setscrew in the extension tube holds the eyepiece in place"

It sounds like you are either using it incorrectly or you need an extention to reach focus. Although that 2" T-adapter for prime-focus looks like it's got a lot of room. Pull the camera back and if it reaches focus but isn't in the focuser you just need an extention. I have a Vixen R200SS and a D30 and there is a sweet spot where you need to be to reach focus. Are you aware that for prime focus you only use the 2" tube part and not the eyepiece projection pieces. I don't think you have to use a barlow unless it's what you want to do. It also adds backfocus and if you are connected to the 2" tube only and all the way in your focuser there shouldn't be a lack of back focus. If you are bottoming out in your focuser and not reaching focus then you may have a problem and need a shorter tube. I am not the Orion expert so I could be wrong.

Good luck and enjoy the D20. The 90 finder with the 2.5X is another helpful but expensive toy.

I fail to see how the Credit Card companies need this bill. Their profits over the last 10 years more then anything prove that they have this under control.

I am surprised that no one has commented on the Health care implications and the effect they will have on everyone as they age or spend the rest of their lives paying back an over inflated Medical bill.

The credit card discussion is a smoke screen. Wills will become completely unnecessary as you will only leave behind dept. This bill equates to a Death Tax/Blank check for the Health Care Industry.

Very Nice picture Tyler,


Did you have the CFW on your ST2K. I have been considering attempting some wide field shots and was wondering about backfocus with the Nikon lens.

I used Levels in CS and played with your JPEG. There is a lot of information there. Nice job.

Me I would wait.

When your DSI comes and you have used it I would then ask of the two (CCD or Visual) which has your interest right now.

Visual, then that I would like to point out that one high end eyepiece will show you more then 3 or 4 low end ones ever will. Think about what size you are enjoying the most right now and upgrade it. If your smart, do your reasearch and buy right on Amart high end eyepieces are like money in the bank. Well provided you take care of them.

DSI, well what do you have. 500 will get you a labtop if you need one or a small shed to house your computer + keep you warm and out on those cold nights. Let us not forget about the joy of warmth and 500 could also buy some nice gloves, hats, high end under garments. A motorized focuser also makes CCD images much easier or better yet a complete focuser upgrade for the 10XT if the CCD bug has really bitten. A high end barlow will make planets look nice on the DSI if there is any money left.



Step Back and enjoy. Having extra money is never a problem.

Has anyone used one of theses

Their new from Starlight made for that Taks

"The Tak web site is not very helpful"

"LOL"

Sad but not true in your case.


Look at #69 on the FS78 system chart. There are two types. An older one with set screws and a newer one that is uses a compression ring which shouldn't leave marks on your eyepieces or diagonal. Get the newer one

http://www.buytelescopes.com/product.asp?t=&pid=2415&m=35

They are quite popular and a post on Amart should get some quick results.

Good luck

And

Enjoy your scope

I have noticed this too.

The BRC is on my list of to own scopes. The specs make it seem like it would be a really nice piece.

I also noticed that the photos from the BRC in the gallery are not what I would have expected. Perhaps my expectations are a little high.