Posts Made By: Charles Geiger

I would check a couple things first before considering more eyepieces or different binoviewer. Firstly, I would check your TAK at high power without binoviewer to make sure you are in collimation. Then, if the problem does seem to lie in the binoviewer, I would call Denkmeier and ask questions. From all I have read and heard, the Denks are top of the line. So maybe they need prism collimation...or maybe there is a problem with the power switch. If you are getting flaring it seems something is out of alignment or you have a pinched optic somewhere. I think a call to Denkmeier would be valuable. And please let us know what you discern.

Great to hear these are working so well for you! I got my new pair of WO Binoviewers last Saturday and await decent weather. Hope I have the same experience.

Floyd, you have gone to great length to make a fair and unbiased review. Thanks for telling us all about the history involved and the improvements implemented. From your pictures, it is a great looking scope! Let us know more about the optics and the new curved secondary support performance as soon as you can. I thought the curved secondary support in the Custom Dynascopes were way ahead of their time! You know that dates me.
Peace

Before you give up on this project, I offer a couple more ideas. If it were me, I would consider welding 'gussets' connecting between each pipe. Weld them near top and near bottom. So you would end up with 6 gussets. Or you could weld box tubing or smaller diameter stainless pipe in place of gussets. More detail work would be involved here as you would need to cut the ends to fit curvatures. This would be very strong as it would be triangulated. Bolting bracing would not accomplish much. Along with a top plate (welded too) you would have one strong pier. Run long J bolts from the bottom flanges into your poured base...weld these too.

You could place 'trays' on top of gussets/tubing/pipe for storing accessories which would be clever. You could also run wiring/cableing up through the center which would be nice.

Keep in mind the further you spread the original three 'mini-piers' apart, the wider (or bigger diameter) your gussets should be.

Remember too to keep in mind provision for leveling and azimuth adjustments for your top plate to wedge.

Price some scrap stainless tubing/sheet (Boeing surplus?/scrap metal yard/plumbing supplies) make some basic plans, go to a welding shop and get a cost estimate...fun to plan and see if its worth the effort...and let us know!

I don't have the 12mm Nagler but I do have the 10.5 XL and also the Meade UWA 14mm. I love both of these eyepieces. I have a C-14 and a C-5 and enjoy in both. Just wondered if you have or considered the UWA 14mm? This might be a nice spacing from your 17mm. (My 14mm is the 4000 series so I cannot comment on the new 5000 series).

As well as what the other posters have said, make the pier pad large in diameter. Say you now have a great polaris mount you want to install. But what happens when you want to install that AP 1200 or Millenium, or larger? I would keep the pad to maybe a foot above floor level and then big enough around to support something bigger down the road. Make sure the attaching J bolts are large in diameter too and spaced out accordingly. That way you can attach a large diameter base plate and add to that as needed.

Another possible option for you is the 2" UO MK70 (70 degree AFOV)which you sometimes find used for around $150.00. Another is the Meade 56mm 2" Plossl. I think the Meade is pretty reasonable new. Also, I have seen a few TV 55mm Plossls second hand for around $150.00. Using the formula Jon gave you can figure out your true fields. The Plossls have an apparent field around 44 to 50 degrees...you will have to check the manufacturer.

The UO MK70 I do own and it works great in my C14. It is supposed to fall off at shorter focal lengths but will probably be OK at f/6.