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Posts Made By: Richard Keppler

July 31, 2009 01:52 PM Forum: Astro-Physics

Yeah for a clear night finally

Posted By Richard Keppler

Roland Christen said:

It's finally clear here and I can image tonight. For weeks on end the skies have been either cloudy or hazy. Tonight is clear and decent seeing. I've got the big 305mm F3.8 fired up and the first couple of exposures are just so satisfying. The scope and STL11K are working at their peak. Stars on my laptop screen look like powder sugar sprinkles - thanks to perfect focus with my new Bahtinov mask. I hope to bag a few goodies tonight.

Rolando

Just wondering why you are using the Bahtinov mask. Is it quicker or more precise than other methods such as FWHM and maximum brightness, or software autofocus routines, etc.

August 27, 2009 07:05 PM Forum: Refractors

AP 155 EDF vs TOA 150

Posted By Richard Keppler

Robert Gilbert said:

I have a wonderful but perplexing choice, a new Takahashi TOAS 150 or a 2000-2001 vintage AP 155 Starfire EDF. They are price equivalent. Any thoughts? I will be using a Losmandy HGM Titan/Gemini or AP900GTO mount regardless of OTA (any thoughts on the mount as well). This will be a major step up for my equipment smile .

Thanks,
Robert

Others will likely disagree but . . .

It all depends on configuration I suppose. Just clarifiying thatt is the 155 an EDF (4 inch focuser with flattener) or EDFS (2.7 inch focuser without flattener). Does it have a Starlight FeatherTouch pinion?

1) the 155EDF is significantly lighter than the TOA150.

2) the Starfire has thinner lens elements and a smaller lens cell. It cools down a fair bit quicker even though it is oil spaced. It doesn't require a tube counterbalance.

3) the Tak micro-focus or whatever it is called is not even close to the Feathertouch. I used one for a month or three on my Sky90 but when Starlight Instruments made the replacement pinion (I was one of the people begging and pleading), the Tak micro-whatever was GONE.

4) overall I find the AP focuser body to be sturdier than the Tak. I mean both the 2.7 and 4 inch AP focusers.

5) No contest for me. I'd take the AP155 - but I am biased.

Rick.

September 21, 2009 03:24 PM Forum: Astro-Physics

Max Resolution test

Posted By Richard Keppler

A quite dramatic and convincing demonstration. The labeling on the middle photo is incorrect though in that it says 1x1 binning on the photo and you say in the text that it is the 2x2 binning example and it certainly appears to be the worst resolution of the three.


September 29, 2009 03:47 PM Forum: Takahashi

Sky 90 - Flattening

Posted By Richard Keppler

George Prentice said:

I have had my Sky 90 for a year. At first I was surprised at how out of focus the stars were off axis. I had inquired about it, I think the dealer said, that's normal, but wasn't sure it was correctable with a flattner / reducer, for visual... or something like that. I also have a FS128, which, of course does not suffer the same issue. Anyone out there have a flattener reducer, does this fix the problem and allow for edge to edge sharpness? Any other side effects. Any input welcome. I think I would really appreciate viewing with edge to edge clarity. Thanks, George

At f5.6 with a doublet, even with a doublet with one fluorite element, edge performance due to spherical aberration is pronounced. I have never tried mine with the dedicated flattener/reducer so I don't know if it would be better or worse. I do know that the extender-Q does help significantly but it is essentially a 1.6x barlow and as such takes it up to around f/9. So much for the wide field views.

Maybe look into replacing it with a TMB92SS?



October 1, 2009 09:43 PM Forum: CCD Imaging and Processing/Deep Sky

AP 130mmF8.35 or Mach1 GTO

Posted By Richard Keppler

1) The 130 f8.35 is such a nice scope visually that even if you don't use it for astrophotography you can still look through it.
2) Aperture rules and 130 >> 101.
3) You can always get a nicer/better mount later. Chances of picking up another AP130 are nowhere near as good, and the chances of getting a scope like this one in the future are quite low.

I am highly biased towards Astro-Physics so take everything I wrote with a grain of salt.






November 6, 2009 10:32 PM Forum: Equipment Talk

Bad idea: 360 degree tripod rotation?

Posted By Richard Keppler

Greg Nowell said:

When I was working with Berlebach on their eventual Losmandy compatible tripod designs, the prototype they send me had the counterweight positioned BETWEEN two legs, not OVER one leg.

I found this to be very unstable: it doesn't take much of a push to "go over" when you have the center of gravity between two legs.

I noticed this because I see a vendor here advertising the desirability of 360 degree adapter rotation for setup. This is not unique to this person: I know of a few other cases. It seems to me that it is not a good idea at all, and that AP was right to put a stop in the amount of adjustment they give you. If you are "allowed" by the mount to position exactly between two legs with the counterweights, you are at risk for tip over.

I hope the picture here makes this clear. The risk may be minimal with a light mount but if I were setting up and had radically misplaced true N I would rather lift the entire tripod and move it to get closer rather than observe all night with the counterweight and telescope mass perched overhanging the two extended legs. I discovered this truth with the prototype Berlebach and the C14/G11.

Long story short: I always thought it would be nice to have infinite or 360 degree adjustment but when I came face to face with reality I discovered that it wasn't a real good idea. I have another pic of the Berlebach prototype which did not get marketed that way.

I have also seen some folks set up counterweights between-the-tripod-legs, and I consider this a no-no. Regrettably the lower your latitude the greater your temptation to set up this way, and I suspect, the worse the results. In a low latitude with the counterweight over the tripod leg the shaft might actually hit the leg. Put it this way. In a low latitude if I were observing with the counterwegiht *between* two legs I would stake down the rear leg as a failsafe. I've been in too many situations where the wind suddenly kicked up. A tripod is impossible to knock over when force is applied from between two legs against an extended leg. It is EASY to knock over when force is applied from behind one leg toward the empty space between the two other legs.

regards
Greg N


I have only seen this as a problem with my lightweight set-ups, and all but one of my tripods/piers has a fully rotating azimuth.


January 18, 2010 04:44 PM Forum: Equipment Talk

A-P 130 StarFire Gran Turismo Quandary

Posted By Richard Keppler

Doug Walton said:

Hi everyone - I'm in a bit of a quandary. I received notification that my name has come up for delivery of a new 130mm StarFire Gran Turismo - after approx. a 9-10 year wait. Unfortunately, I'm currently not in any kind of position to buy the scope anytime soon. As I see it, my options are:

Cheers,
Doug

Well you could do what about 10 other people on Astromart have done; which is buy it, put it up for sale at $1500 to $2000 over list, sell it here and pocket the cash. The difference being that they never discussed it with anyone in public beforehand, they just went ahead and did it.

or

You could do what an unknown number of others have done and decline to purchase it. This moves the wait list along a bit more each time it happens.


February 17, 2010 04:27 PM Forum: Astro-Physics

Pictures from Dome C in Antarctica

Posted By Richard Keppler

Roland Christen said:

French research facility at Dome C doing extra-solar planet research:

http://e.bondoux.free.fr/imagesforum/PAIX.JPG

3600 mount with heavy equipment package. This one is definitely not carry-on size:

http://e.bondoux.free.fr/imagesforum/t300.JPG

Damn, it doesn't look any warmer there now than it did this time last year.

What a testament to your wonderful mounts! I don't see the CP2/CP3 controller packages though. The red wires just come out of the motor covers and head down out of sight. They must have put the electronics in a protected case of some sort.

Speaking of red cables, I wonder what they are making their cables out of? Everything we normally use turns into a semi-rigid branch or a steel bar depending on the winter temperature - and that is very warm compared to down there. Now the cables to the motors are not having to move too much but the grey ones attached to the cameras are! I wonder if they are silicone?


February 23, 2010 05:30 PM Forum: Refractors

Re: AP 130EDFGT On Auction???

Posted By Richard Keppler

I was the one who brought it up to list price just before your bid. Did you ever receive any communications from Robert? Since he was brand new to Astromart, I wrote asking for more info. He sent some tracking info as it had yet to arrive, saying that he would update the auction with pictures once he got the packages. I think he modified the listing to indicate the same. Did he ever do so? I also said that I would need the serial number so that I could call Astro-Physics to confirm his ownership before I continued bidding any further. I never received the serial number and since the end of the auction was about a week away I haven't been watching.

March 10, 2010 06:26 PM Forum: Astro-Physics

AP drive control problem

Posted By Richard Keppler

Maurice Clark said:

The past couple of times I have used the system, the AP control does not seem to boot up correctly. The key pad just reads "Astro Physics Version 4.12". Nothing seems to be able to make the key pad show anything different, nor will the key pad move the telescope in any way. I can still drive the telescope using The Sky, but I am at a loos as to what might have happened with the AP control system.

Maurice

Disconnect the computer and everything except the keypad and servo cables from the controller. Verify that the power to the mount is >12VDC and that the pins are clean with good contact on both the power and on the keypad. Power up and see if the keypad will communicate with the mount. If not, one possibility is that the battery in the keypad needs replacing. Another possibility is that the contacts inside the keypad are corroded. Check the Astro-Physics website for more information about either and what to look for/how to repair.