As John pointed out it was high time I updated this thread....
After discovering that the lenses were reversed and sending it off for interferometer testing and discovering it was badly spaced on top of being reversed we made a new spacer for between the lenses out of ABS and finished the physical build of the scope. Have been using it for a few months now and it performs even better than I hoped it would.
After all the measuring for testing and validating the design, two different sources confirmed that spacing the lenses to .664 would cure its issue with excessive blue fringing,it was caused by an issue with R3 not being to design spec on the radius.
We made the spacer out of a block of ABS on the lathe....Once we got it under the stars we knew right away that the issues were over. Both sources (Nu-Tek and Mike Jones a optical engineer with Lockheed-Martin) were in agreement the change should make it perform per Remer's original prescription and they were spot on, I really don't believe it could be any better. Saturn and Jupiter are just flat out amazing in it with no perceptible fringing at all when using binoviewers and just the barest hit of blue fringe with single EP's on Jupiter.
The R3 radius by design was supposed to be 43.0" and it was actually 42.040" for a deviation of 0.960" which is significant as it represents a 2.23% variation from the design spec and was resulting in a lot of visible blue fringing. The new spacing cleared that up nicely.
Pic of ABS spacer....we cut baffling ridges into the ID of 0.035" deep and 0.050" wide given the distance between the lenses is now over 1/2" I was concerned with reflections.....it musta worked

Greg Shaffer said:
Been gathering up the parts for sometime now and have everything on hand now except for 9" tube itself.
Been thinking on the best way to construct the baffle system and it hit me like a ton of bricks yesterday.....
Use carbon graphite arrow shafts cut to the proper lengths to space out the baffles properly, can cut them to lenght, glue in the inserts, drill holes in the baffels and simply insert them sandwiched between the shafts, three shafts per section, ending up with an all in one assembly that I have just slide into the tube and anchor at each end of the assembly.....super lightweight, strong and already black.....
Based on my calculations I will end up with 5 baffels.....using thin aluminum sheet for the baffels themselves.....I dont see any reason it wouldnt work and work well.....any thoughts?
Thanks
Greg