Posts Made By: John A. Maher

Are you looking @ new or shopping Amart

Hi Tyler

Nice image and very likable

I just shot a test image of M13 with my M160 and ST2K

I see I have to lower my exposure times to get more detail, less saturation, and put some stars on a diet. These are ten minutes LRGB (6L 2XRGB)and are what I think the max for the colors but way to much for the luminance. I also have to change my camera angle to get a better guide star. Hopefully the clouds here on th east coast will clear for the new moon. I shot this with the moon too and lost some detail getting the green out of the sky.

What were your exposure times

Hi Tyler

Again nice image

Nice Image Robert

Excellent research

Isn't it amazing

Hi Wei

It might be one of these.

1)Motor to gear mesh; use a piece of doubled cigarette paper as a spacer between the gears and readjust the motor position

2)The worm bearing races have backed out allowing the worm gear to shift; The large chrome nuts on either side of the worm gear. One is an adjustment the other is the lock. If this does not make sense go to a bike shop and ask to see a high end mountain bike crank bearing set. It is not to hard to see if this is the problem; the shaft for the worm will move in or out when you move the DEC axis manually or if you push/pull the worm shaft the gear will move DEC axis. These movements are very small and equal your backlash.

3)The entire worm assembly has moved and the gap between it and the main gear has changed. This will require a rather large post and some pics.

Whatever you do tighten things half as much as you think first and then triple check it before tightening again. Butterer smoothness is what you want to feel when you turn anything. If it feels like there is sand or its hard to turn; its too tight. I set them so there is no backlash and you can turn the worm by the shaft without a gear with your fingers.

If you are not comfortable with these adjustments send your mount to TNR or bring it to a dealer. Over tightening the worm to main gear can cause a really bad thing to happen to your mount.

Hi Paul,

Congratulations on the new camera. That is a dream setup

My advise:

LRGB Color is also much more involved then the black and white or one shot color in processing. I pretty much agree with everything except maybe the shooting blue early but that's me, another post and not where you are right now anyways. I would recommend just taken some pictures even if it is only one or or two of each filter regardless of order so you can start processing the LRGB.

As for the auto guider do the calibration with the blue filter if a suitable guide star is questionable (adjust the exposure time so the guide star is 'OK' in blue and you will be fine across the board). I add a delay between images too so if there is a filter switch your auto guider can make the corrections before the imaging chip turns on.

Looking forward to seeing the color images

Hi Jason

You seem to have a very nice technique for processing your stars and the colors with the St2000.

Could you share it.

Hi Paul,

I use only distilled water which is available at most pharmacies with a few drops of Ajax dish washing liquid. If you substitute the soap it must not have any hand softeners or additives for your skin. I then add one container of 91% isopropyl alcohol. DO NOT use rubbing alcohol.

I pour out enough water from the gallon container to accommodate the alcohol and pour it all in the gallon container. I then use a coffee filter to strain my solution and rinse my cleaning bowl. Then I add some to the bowl again using the coffee filter. Add one drop of soap. I soak what ever I am cleaning in the bowl sometimes for quite a while and with a piece of white tee shirt material on the bottom of the bowl to prevent the bowl from contacting the glass being cleaned. Then I try to clean it with just the motion of lifting it in and out of the water. If that is not enough I use a small modeler's paint brush (with real animal hair) to very very gently try to remove whatever it is. If this does not work I let it soak again and if it does not come off the second time (90% of them do) it stays or soaks in a solution with a lot more soap and the process is repeated. The object here it to make them better not worst and realize 90% is better then ruined.

When they are clean I fill another bowl using the same method less the soap and use it for the final rinse. The alcohol helps the water to evaporate so there should be no need for any wiping. I have a space heater near by and that is what I use not paper or a cloth to dry the glass. Spotting should not occur if the object and rinse solution is clean.

Have fun and always work over a soft surface.

I have used this for all my telescope needs and it has worked every time. Cost is about two to three bucks.

Hi Greg,

Gorgeous image

Because I can not seem to get a straight answer on the Tak forum could I ask your opinion on the 106 and if you have used the 104. You can PM so we don't tie up this forum. It would be greatly appreciated

TY

Amazing Dan,

14.5 hours,

Did they discover it with film. I could not see someone finding that with the naked eye.