How's This For A Photo "Gremlin"?Posted By Jason Lane |
whoa
Posts Made By: Jason Lane
January 27, 2006 12:34 AM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
January 27, 2006 12:36 AM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
Using the Meade ETX series for photosPosted By Jason Lane |
I'd say go ahead and try, as long as you keep your expectations lower. ^_^
-Jason
-Jason
January 31, 2006 03:40 PM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
ngc 1977Posted By Jason Lane |
Very nice, what was your scope again?
-Jason
-Jason
January 31, 2006 03:41 PM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
The "Twins"Posted By Jason Lane |
Nice shot, Chris.
-Jason
-Jason
February 8, 2006 05:13 PM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
35mm film of choicePosted By Jason Lane |
Hi Leif,
The current films that work well are:
Kodak Ektachrome 200 or Elite Chrome 200 (these are also referred to as E200) (color Slide)
Fuji Provia 400F (color slide)
Fuji Super HQ 200 (color negative)
You'll get the best results out of the two slide films, and it's a good idea to at least try the Kodak E200 just to see the saturated reds. They are nice. The Elite Chrome 200 is the amateur version of the professional Ektachrome 200. The local shops will likely have to send them off but I've found that's not a big deal (I take mine into Wal-Mart, for example).
The B&W Film of choice by far used to be hypered Kodak Technical Pan Film, but in their infinite wisdom they've discontinued making it as of last year. You can still get hypered TP from lumicon.com...you'll just need a way to develop it.
Hope this helps,
Jason
The current films that work well are:
Kodak Ektachrome 200 or Elite Chrome 200 (these are also referred to as E200) (color Slide)
Fuji Provia 400F (color slide)
Fuji Super HQ 200 (color negative)
You'll get the best results out of the two slide films, and it's a good idea to at least try the Kodak E200 just to see the saturated reds. They are nice. The Elite Chrome 200 is the amateur version of the professional Ektachrome 200. The local shops will likely have to send them off but I've found that's not a big deal (I take mine into Wal-Mart, for example).
The B&W Film of choice by far used to be hypered Kodak Technical Pan Film, but in their infinite wisdom they've discontinued making it as of last year. You can still get hypered TP from lumicon.com...you'll just need a way to develop it.
Hope this helps,
Jason
February 9, 2006 03:21 PM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
Elite Chrome 200 - where to develop?Posted By Jason Lane |
Hi Lawrence,
I take my slides to Wal-Mart to get developed. In other words, developers can't really screw up developing slides like they can color negatives.
As for exposure time. Yes, take a 8 minute shot or so to get the brightest parts of the region. However, do a 60-minute exposure as well to capture the fainter stuff...you might think this is a long time, but it's not for an autoguider and a nebula. 60-minutes is actually on the short side for an f/7.5 system, but it's a start.
-Jason
edit: make that 8-minutes like 10 or 15 minutes....and take two of them in case one screws up. Take two or more of the 60-minute as well. Get as much exposure time on the film as you can....you won't regret it, especially if your autoguider is doing a good job and the atmospheric conditions are good. Bring spare batteries for your camera ^_^
I take my slides to Wal-Mart to get developed. In other words, developers can't really screw up developing slides like they can color negatives.
As for exposure time. Yes, take a 8 minute shot or so to get the brightest parts of the region. However, do a 60-minute exposure as well to capture the fainter stuff...you might think this is a long time, but it's not for an autoguider and a nebula. 60-minutes is actually on the short side for an f/7.5 system, but it's a start.
-Jason
edit: make that 8-minutes like 10 or 15 minutes....and take two of them in case one screws up. Take two or more of the 60-minute as well. Get as much exposure time on the film as you can....you won't regret it, especially if your autoguider is doing a good job and the atmospheric conditions are good. Bring spare batteries for your camera ^_^
February 22, 2006 09:07 PM
Forum:
Telescope Making
The best secondary mirror money can buy....Posted By Jason Lane |
But then I wouldn't be able to afford it!
March 2, 2006 06:54 AM
Forum:
Film Astrophotography - Imaging and Processing
IC 405 Region-AE Auriga Schmidt CameraPosted By Jason Lane |
Great shot. I still have a ton of Tech Pan that I haven't had the chance to break open yet.
-Jason
-Jason
March 4, 2006 04:13 AM
Forum:
Equipment Talk
Re: Are Meade UHTC coatings same as Meade EMC?Posted By Jason Lane |
From what I remember, the majority opinion among owners who had been able to view through both was that the UHTC coatings were a noticeable improvement over the EMC coatings....visibly and not just photographically. That said, I owned an EMC-coated LX90 and IMO they were good. The UHTC coatings must be that much better. Worth it if you can get 'em.
-Jason
March 17, 2006 05:09 PM
Forum:
Telescope Making
In search of a good coaterPosted By Jason Lane |
From your profile it looks like you're in Hawaii. If you're still there, then the best bet would be to find a place on the west coast to minimize shipping time. I just sent a mirror to L & L Optical in Mission Viejo CA and they did an excellent job. Good prices and quick turnaround time.
BTW, any coater should be able to strip the mirror for you. So I'd say first off ask your local coater about that. A lot less risky to hand deliver a mirror than to ship elsewhere.
-Jason
BTW, any coater should be able to strip the mirror for you. So I'd say first off ask your local coater about that. A lot less risky to hand deliver a mirror than to ship elsewhere.
-Jason
Funding Member
