Posts Made By: Tom Mengel

Actually the USB to serial adaptor would work I think. The only problem is the USB needs some addressing info. that the system cobbles up (there can be more than one device on the USB bus). But otherwise it's all straight serial transfer. The only other "gotcha" is setting up the Mag. I serial data rate, parity. stop-bits, and data word length to the hand held (if you have it working on your laptop you can check the I/O port settings there to find out - it's something like 9600 baud, no stop bits, no parity and 8 bit word length if my memory serves here). I’m not sure but the USB may also take care of that too.

I'd go ahead and get the adaptor from one of the bigger outlets and let them know you might be bringing it back. Most will allow that if your up front about it (but do ask about any "restocking fees", however!).

Great web page - you have about the exact same 2" solid base I am cobbling up for an old "WWI port hole" 8" f5.6 DOB (the mirror supposidly was ground in 1936 from a 8" port hole plate glass from an old WW-I warship a High School friend's Dad salvaged in NY City in the early 1930s). I plan to do exactly what you did so . . .

Can you give us more info on the AZ circle? you state

"While pleased at the improvement, I continued to think about ways to improve the system. I ultimately decided that my hand drawn azimuth scale was not be as accurate as it could be. With the help of Craig, a Cloudy Nights Friend, and an AutoCad file he provided, I replaced it with a computer generated scale."

Any way we could get hold of the AZ circle file(s)?

Thanks!

The general rule of thumb I've heard is the highest power that frames the subject. Esp. in light polluted skies upping the power will darken the background and allow you to go a little bit deeper.

I myself like a lowly 32mm Plossl (60X) and an exceptional old Rini 20mm (100X) on deepsky and about 180 on planets. If the seeing permits I'll go to about 220X to 250X but skies here almost never allow better than that.

Tom Mengel
Moderator Equipment forum

If you don't already have them get a good pair of binos to scope out objects before you try to find them in your bigger scope. Many folks like 7X50s but I prefer the 10X50s myself. Either way you will be amazed how much they will help you place things so you can lock onto them with your main scope.

Get a good pair (I found a bottom of the line pair of Nikons beat the socks off of the cheap Chinese imports myself but you mileage may vary) and remember you will keep a good pair forever and can always bring them with you when you travel, even when your big scope stays at home. I use mine alone at least as much as I use my bigger scope - pure simple pleasure on a good dark night.

Tom Mengel
Moderator Equipment Forum

Hi Victor,

I would suggest you place a “Wanted” advert here in AM as many, many more people look at that than this forum (plus asking for a specific scope as a business proposition on this forum is skirting the AM guidelines a bit).

Otherwise that’s a neat scope your after – good luck in finding it!

Tom Mengel
(Moderator – Equipment Forum)

If you mean the diagonal’s retaining ring that holds the diagonal to the back of the OTA body - it should tighten down and hold the diagonal firmly in place when observing.

(Uncle Rod – correct me here as needed . . .)

Be aware that the baffle tube SCEWS INTO the rear (cast base) of the MEADE SCTs and should *NOT* be coming unscrewed! If your baffle tube has become loosened (probably the previous owner over tightened the diagonal collar and then twisted it and started unscrewing the baffle tube) you need to screw it back up tight and then realign your scope. This is important as the main mirror rides on this baffle tube to focus so it MUST be tight! You can improvise and use the diagonal by screwing the collar onto the tube tight and then use the whole diagonal as a “wrench” to re-tighten the baffle tube to the OTA body (turn it “clockwise” looking into the bottom/back of the OTA body). I’ve been there – done that . . . just be sure you are tightening the baffle tube when you do it!

Some folks cut washers from old milk jugs so as to "tension" the diagonal to slip a wee bit when you want to change the EP orientation (happens to be how I unscrewed MY baffle tube - smile). But you can also change the alignment of the diagonal to OTA body that way and introduce off axis problems. I went back to just unscrewing (carefully) the collar and retightening it to change the EP position.

Tom Mengel (Moderator - Equipment Forum)

Could might also be to fit the payload section of the launcher . . . and in another even stranger thread:

I worked a small bit on James Webb and that mission has a 9 section gold surfaced barium primary mirror with each section being on the average 2mm thick. All 9 section are suppoed to a. unfurl and interlock together and b. small motors on the back of each section will stress the individual mirror segments as well as mirror segments aligned to the main spacecraft body to get the whole telescope into the final figure needed (think "adaptive optice with an attitude". . .).

I really, really hope it unfurls and aligns correctly as it being sent to the L2 point about 1 million mile towards the sun where any "rescue mission" would pretty much be out of the question (this ain't a Hubbell in a LEO anymore, Ma!).

Tom Mengel (Moderator Equipment Forum)

I think it's a case of many folks getting older and not wanting to push a huge refrator around. A C8 or a Meade LX200 has the same general specs and are sure easier to move around, mount, and get service for. Plus urban light polluted skies almost demand a at least somewhat portable scope you can haul to a dark site for "serious" viewing, and a large refractor sure is not a grab and go kind of rig. (heck, I just mounted my 8 inch SCT Azm/El so I can be more comfortable).

I'm not knocking a good 6 or 8 inch refractor mounted at a dark sky site, but for me I'm past the era of contorting in the dark to find the eyepeice after setting the huge beast up. Large refractors not simply the most convenient scope for many folks as they get older and there are lots of more suitable scopes out there for the same views.

Tom Mengel (Your humble Moderator, equipment forum)

Just a quick thanks to all who suggested/advised my situation.

As I do have a old (home made) steel 8 inch F5.6 DOB that sort of duplicate a LX-10 (parked in a friends mountain home for now) I will go for the 5 inch Celestron on a EQ 3-2 mount until such time as I can afford and have space for a bigger light bucket.

Again, thanks for all the feedback. Dark skies to all.

Oh man, gotta do it . . .

This may be a "kind'a, sort'a" equipment talk topic BUT If we let everyone who wants a plug for their meet to go ahead and place it here this forum will get a) Cluttered and b) Off topic.

AM has a schedule tab and several general "Astro" stuff forums. As Herb went to all the the trouble to set them up they may be better alternatives to Equipment Talk.

Thanks!