Posts Made By: Bonner Mills

I saw it at astronomy.com. Truly tragic. Even with insurance will take forever to rebuild.

I just received a Class "A" solar filter from Scopetronix. Filter is mfg. by J.M.B. I put the scope outside, to accliminate for 30' and installed the filter. I can see basically nothing when pointing the scope at the sun. There is a brightness for about the top half of the 28mm and 26mm eyepieces, but nothing that will come to focus. Then removed the filter, sighted a land object and focused normally with no problem. Tried the filter and sun again with same results as before. Very disappointed, as the filter is $85. Would appreciate any suggestions. Thanks.

As a consumer and amateur astronomer contemplating a new scope purchase, what I want is a working, well made instrument that I can rely on. I want optics that are diffraction limited with a very sturdy mount. I want "standard features" included in the base price (dew shield, anti vibration pads, wedge, adequate covers or protection for the scope. Don't undersize anything to economize. Perhaps one good quality low power eyepiece. I want the scope to perform as advertised and meet theoritical limits. And, most of all, I want the mfg. to stand behind the product and be accessable. I don't want constant busy signals when I call and I don't want to spend a long time on hold and I don't want to leave a message for them to call me back. I want to speak to a live body. If I feel the price to obtain these features is fair, I will pay it. If I am charged a lesser price and have to spend more to get what should have been included in the first place, well, that is "smoke and mirrors".

Very interesting discussion. I am in the second month of trying to research Meade/Celestron as to a 10" Meade gps or Celestron 11" gps. To me portability is a big issue, living in an area of bad light pollution and using a sedan to haul to a dark site.
If I can bore you with a story - tried to locate a Meade showroom dealer within driving distance as I have yet to view and lay hands on a Meade 10" LX200. Called one the other day about 2 hours drive from me. None in stock, can't keep in stock, 8 weeks wait if I order. Said I wanted to look at one. Called me back. He made an appointment for tomorrow with a college local to him who has one for me to visit and look at. Will meet me at his store in am and go with me to the college. Sounds very knowledgeable about scopes and says he is largest Meade dealer in NC. I am not used to this level of service from sellers of any product. Very pleasantly surprised, even when I told him I was only researching and not ready to purchase, when he offered to arrange the appointment.
By the way, he has a Celestron Nexstar 11" gps and 8" gps in his showroom for me to look at tomorrow also. But his Meades are sold out. hmmm!

That's an awful lot of money just to develop film! I haven't done it in years but still have my equipment for film and prints. Suggest visiting a well stocked camera shop that caters to pros. All you need is a stainless steel developing tank with reels for the size of film you will process, i.e., 35mm or 120mm. You need an accurate photo thermometer. Mine is stainless steel. A changing bag or a light tight room is necessary to load the film onto the reels. A can opener to open the film cassette, a pair of children's scissors to cut the film square prior to loading. Clothespins or paper clamps from an office supply. Five or six dark brown 8 oz bottles to store mixed developer; more if doing color. Try to con a pharmacist you know to sell you a few. Three 16 oz plastic graduates, couple of jars, string clothes line. A plastic pan for a water bath (temperatures are pretty important). And, the chemicals for b&w, color slides or prints. If you are doing b&w, Kodak d76 developer is great if its still around. If slides, probably Kodak e200 pro film and e6 chemicals. And an inexpensive book on developing. It ain't rocket science. For the price of that kit, you could buy a scope. Would be glad to help you any way I can. [email protected]

Current deal has been extended through April. Interestingly:

Mead 10" LX200GPS, reg. $2,995 Sale $2,495 now.

April 1996 S&T announced price increase of "8-17% in the prices of almost all models" effective 5-1-96.
10" LX200 to go from $2,895 to $3,195.

So, its cheaper now (22%), more advanced and for $99 can get seven Super Plossl's worth $650 with case.

So, I ordered one. Figure prices can't go anywhere but up.

Jason - I ordered a 10" LX200gps UHTC on Feb 7 and was told that it would take 8 weeks to arrive. So, that should be about April 4. So, I'm pretty calm now with time to plan for the scope and order some accessories. But, after April 4, I will probably go nuts until it shows up.
Bonner

Very nice! Couple of questions:

Type of camera?
Film type or digital?
Exposure time and was the mount equatorially aligned and motor driven?
Did you use a filter on the camera?
Thanks, Bonner

Craig - I think you've got a great photo! I am trying to visualize your setup. I have an Olympus c4040z and couple it to a Maxview 40 for eyepiece projection. I think it allows great photos, but I am limited to 40mm eyepiece or 20mm w/barlow. Works great on moon and sun with my ETX90. I have a 10" LX200 on order and would like to know more about your set-up as to the Home Depot plumbing coupler and the video feed to the tv. I really have trouble focusing using the camera monitor.
Thanks, Bonner

I have previously made web contact with a gentleman who suggested the keys, though I don't know exact site he had in mind. We left it that I would contact him when I firm my plans. I live in NC and can gain 10 deg. altitude by going to the Keys, which I plan to do for closest approach on Aug 27 and Opposition on Aug 28. Would like more info. on where you would hold the "WSP" as to driving directions, etc. If this turns into a large event I probably should go ahead and make motel reservations for about a week, and would appreciate suggestions on reasonable lodging (Holiday Inn, Hampton, etc) within reasonable driving distance of the site. You can e-mail me at [email protected], or post here.
Thanks, Bonner