Posts Made By: Gregory Damiani

I am interested in purchasing a Chromacor, if it can be compatible with my scope w/o too much trouble. I recently purchased a Meade LXD 55 AR 6 from a local dealer. I have not yet received the scope (hopefully a few more weeks). I have read about and I am interested in the Chromacor. I have also read about the Safix.

My understanding is that the Chomacor corrects chromatic aberration, and can be "matched" with your scope so as to correct / reduce spherical aberration (SA).

I understand there are 5 choices of SA correction (2 over, 2 under, one null). I understand I will have to determine the status of my scope's status regarding Spherical Aberration. I have read some brief descriptions of a Ronchi test to determine SA.

Has anyone performed this test to determine SA for a Chromacor purchase, or other reason?

I understand the Chromacor was designed to work with Synta scopes. Several articles refer to various pieces of equipment to be used with the Chromacor, including an Intes 2" diagonal, a self centering adapter and various "spacers" -Has anyone tried a Chomacor w/ an AR5 or AR 6 (or at all)? Does anyone know of any other items I would need to integrate the Chromacor with a Meade LXD 55 AR 6?

I have also read about the SAFIX. It is my understanding the SAFIX will correct SA, and does not require that I "test" my scope prior to purchase, as it is adjustable. This seems like a "simpler" option. Will a Safix work in concert w/ a null chromacor?

I have e-mailed several vendors but haven't gotten a response.

Any advice and/or opinions appreciated.

I recently purchased an LXD 55 AR 6 - awaiting delivery. I am planning several (hopefully not too many) modifications. Several posts indicate the tripod can use some help. I may eventually opt for new wooden legs, and I have seen several links posted for good sources.

I would like to try improving the original eqipment first. Has anyone had luck filling the tripos legs, and if so with what? I have read about sand and lead shot. I deally I wouls like somwthing that wont rattle leak or spill. Has anyone ever tried a fine dement - like portland cement- or perhaps a ceramic or an epoxy? - something that can be poured in and set.

I have also thought about melting parrafin wax and pouring that into the legs? This would add weight, but probably not much rigidity. Comments and opnions appreciated.

Hello all. Just received my AR 6 this weekend. Got to use it the other night before clouds and dew shut me down. Seeing wasn't bad and I was pleased with Jupiter detail, more detail than I have seen with a 4.5 inch newtonian (big suprise). First time I clearly saw the GRS. I am looking forward to a night of good seeing.

Stars were sharp and crisp, but bright stars had color. Sirius has serious color (I know - really bad). Jupiter had a definite violet / purple haze. I dont mind the color so much, but several posts I have read equate the unfocussed wavelenghts to a significant central obstruction in a reflector. I have done some reading on the Chromacor. Reviews agree that unnatural color is corrected. Several reviews mention increased sharpness and planetary detail.

Has anyone had any first hand experience? The piece is fairly expensive ($600-$800) and as they were designed with Synta OTA's in mind, there may be some "tinkering" required to get a proper set up. (John Hopper @ Astrobuffet - [email protected] - has been very helpful).

Several reviews have claimed APO or near APO performance. As I have never viewed through an APO refractor at all - I am not sure how much of an improvement this will be. APO's certainly demand a premium so there must be something to it. I know the best advice is to view for myself, but this probably wont work - unless someone drags their APO to my backyard (joking).

How much better will near APO viewing be?

Looking back, cost of scope, new diagonal, Ronchi gratings & chromacor - could have gotten LX 90 or even 8" LX 200 GPS. Given the obstructions - Alan Dyer equates planetary performance of 8" SCT to that of a 5" scope. Do you think I'll do better with the 6 inch refractor? With or without chromacor?

Any comments or recommendations before I spend about as much as I did on the scope for the chromacor. Is APO / Near APO performance worth it?

Thanks.

I am using a Meade 2x Telenegative APO (Meades name for 2x barlow) with a 6 inch F8 Achromat. I notice greater magnification if I put the barlow into the focuser, then the diagonal, then the eyepiece, as opposed to diagonal, barlow, eyepiece. What is the explanation as to why, & any approximation as to the new multiplication?

Also, I seem to notice less false color with this arrangement, than with a shorter focus eyepiece (& no barlow) providing approx. equal magnification. Does the barlow effect of "doubling" the focal length have an added benefit of reducing chromatic aberrations (ie a 6 inch F 16 would have less color than an F 8)?

I am trying to collimate a 6 inch achromatic refractor (has adjusting screws at the objective). I've been trying to use stars, but seeing hasn't been great (or my optics are terrible). Trying to use a star at zenith to improve seeing makes it impossible to get at the adjusting screws without a ladder. I've read about people using a cheshire eyepiece to collimate a refractor. Will this yeild a good collimation, or is it akin to a "rough" eyeballing on a newt? Can a laser collimator be used? How? Any recommendations on what type brand (cost is somewhat a factor). Any info or links appreciated.

Also, I am not sure if the focuser assembly is dead on. Question: If an object is centered in the EP while using a diagonal ($99 WO - love it), and the diagonal is rotated about the axis of the scope in the fosuser, should the object stay centered or is it expected to move? Objects move significantly in mine, at high power, they can move outside the field of view. Intuitively, I believe it should stay centered. The only explanation I can think of is that the focuser and/or diagonal are out of alignment with the objective light path (in which case, I guess all attempted collimation is kind of futile).

Comments or advice appreciated.

Thanks.

OK, it's cloudy and drizzling, plus I've got to go to work tomorrow. Seeing recently has not been so hot. Is there any type of acceptable "artificial star" so as to star test with the aim of optimizing optical performance? Does reflected sunlight work? Can you acheive defraction rings by racking in and out of focus worthy of testing performance with either? I am guessing reflected sunlight is not dependant on atmospherics (as long as the sun is out). The thought of testing, collimating and adjusting on a sunny Saturday afternoon has got me giddy after the last few nights.

Give me some good news.

Thanks.

Gregg

I was observing Jupiter last night. I was able to see 2 dark equatorial bands with some detail and wispyness in the bands. I was able to see a bright white oval on the polar side of one band. I don't believe it was GRS, I did not notice turbulance before or after the light oval. I was able to see dark strands from the darker equatorial bands encroaching about halfway into the center light equatorial belt. I was able to see shading and slight banding at the polar regions.

I noticed a dark gray spot on one of the dark equatorial bands protruding into the adjacent lighter band closer to the pole. It did not look like a moon shadow, however, I am observing with a new scope. I am used to seeing black dots, but moon shadows may appear different in my new scope.

I later checked a java applet which shows the position of the Gallilean moons and shadows cast a given date and time. The program showed a moon shadow transiting Jupiter at about 10:30 - 11:00 PM EST (the time I was observing). A program at another site did not show any shadow transits for the same time. Was there a shadow transit at about 10:30 PM to 11:00 PM EST last night (3/20)?

I was observing Jupiter Friday night through Saturday morning (3/21 - 3/22). Three Gallilean moons were aligned on one side, another on the opposite side. I could not tell whether it was Europa or Ganymede by itself. I noticed between Io and the next moon (Europa or Ganymede) a very faint point of light, obviously in the plane of the moons and planet. This small faint light was closer to Io and stayed in the plane of the planet and moons, athough the distance between Io and this small faint light increased during my veiwing. This object was not noticably visible as a discreet disk.

Was this another moon?

I first noticed it at about 128X. After noticing it, it was clearly visible at 47X. I am using a Meade AR 6 (achromatic refractor).

Thank you.

Looking to get a grab & go primarily for planets. Use for quick backyard peeks and as a vacation scope. Thinking MakCas. How do Orion and ETX of similar aperture compare? Are the 5 inchers portable? How long does cool down really take?

Also thinking short tube refractor, with a minus violet of some type.

Any opinions and recommendations appreciated. Thanks!

I guess my eyes are going - hopefully just a bit and slowly. The 5 mm EP I used so much 7 years ago is a serious hassle today. I have a 2x Meade APO Barlow which makes viewing much more comfortable. I recently changed out my WO 2" diagonal for the stock 1.25" and put the diagonal into the barlow for 2+ (maybe 3x). Wow. Even better. So now, I'm in the market for 3x or maybe 4x.

I've found a few 3x barlows out there ranging from $30 to about $110. Sirius Optics and Televue each make a 3x around $90 (sirius) to $105 (TV). Any users?

Anyone know of any manufacturer of a 4x barlow?

Televue also makes the Powermate. A bit more expensive, but I can get 4x in a 2" version. At 1.25" its either 2.5x or 5x. Anyone use the Powermates? How do they compare with a barlow?

Comments and recommendations appreciated.