Posts Made By: Bill Huegerich

Hello, I've seen similar posts with very helpful replies so I thought I'd see if anyone could help me get going. I'm new to astronomy and got an Orion Sky View Pro 6 EQ, 750mm scope with the standard 25mm and 10mm eyepieces. I'm shopping for a barlow, but don't have one yet. I don't understand the field of view with different eyepieces. So far, I've looked at the Orion nebula, Saturn, Jupiter, and I found M81 and M82 once after a great deal of searching. I've found that the mirror image in the reflector scope is rather confusing. I'm open to any suggestions the experienced people can offer me as far as how to find things, what magnification is best for what type of objects, etc. Thanks for all your help. I'm very excited about finding more deep space objects. -Bill

Hello, I debated posting this in "Beginners" but it seemed more appropriate here. I want to try some film astrophotography, but have limited equipment. I have a 6" reflector on an equatorial mount with motors. What I want to do is piggyback my 35mm camera with maybe an 85mm lens and shoot the meteor shower this week. I got a roll of Provia 400F slide film. I do not have a polar alignment scope or any kind of guide scope. I know I can't hope for correct alignment for any real long exposures, but what would be reasonable exposures to attempt with all my limitations? And, how long do I really need to leave the shutter open to expose meteors? Or is this hopeless considering what I have to work with? I also considered just putting the camera on a tripod and letting the stars trail to try to catch the meteors, but that's not my first choice. Thanks for all your advice.
Bill

Can someone explain to me how different types of scopes in different sizes compare as far as light gathering? What I mean is, it seems like lots of people use high end refractors that are often only 90mm or so for deep space viewing/photography. I'm just getting started, but I got a 6" reflector and can't imagine that type of viewing with anything smaller. As a matter of fact, I've been thinking I should have gone for a 10". Now I know I'm comparing apples to oranges here, but is there some kind of rough comparison that can be made, like 6" reflector = x" refractor? Thanks, Bill

I've been searching and reading about the UHC and Ultrablock filters and wonder if anyone can suggest which will help me more, if either. I have a 6" reflector and live in a very small town with what I think is relatively low light pollution. It seems like I'm finding a lot of info on people using these with 10"+ scopes. Will I see a large benefit in viewing nebulas with either of these, or don't I have enough aperture to deal with the light loss with the filters? Would one be better than the other for my scope? Thanks for your opinions. -Bill

I just got the Orion variable adapter and EOS T ring to hook my 20D up to my Orion SkyView Pro 6 EQ telescope. However, I was unable to reach anything close to focus. The paper that came with the adapter suggested using a barlow. So, I put my 2x barlow in between and it appears to be possible to focus (although I can't really say that I've achieved that yet), but I appear to have a very small field of view. For example, I pointed it toward the Pleades and can only get a couple stars in the view. Is this normal? Do I have any other options to get a wider view? Help! -Bill

Coincidentally, I need to take a business trip to Monterrey, Mexico, so I adjusted the dates to be there on April 8 (I live in Iowa). I haven't been able to find much info on the eclipse that will be taking place. Can someone help point me in the right direction as to what times/how long it will occur and what I will be able to see? I wish I could take my telescope, but I'm afraid I'll have to view it through my junk binoculars (with Baader filters) that have been dropped one too many times. But, I've never seen any eclipse before, so it should be interesting none the less. Thanks! -Bill

Well, this was my first attempt at stacking. I took 6 shots pointed up at the Milkyway, each 8 sec., ISO 800, f1.8 w/ 50 mm lens, and combined them in Photoshop Elements. Then I flattened it and applied Curves. The camera was on a fixed tripod, so I couldn't really go any longer on the exposures.

http://www.pbase.com/billhuegerich/image/47827481

For starters, I see that the different layers could use some rotation from the movement on the outside edges. But, should I be able do something to help bring out more detail too? Should I shoot one ISO 1600 image as well, and if so, do I put that on the top or bottom of the stack? Thanks! -Bill

I have a 20d, but have been having difficulty trying to focus through the camera, to say the least. The viewfinder is just to dim to see the difference unless I am making drastic changes. I have made a hartman mask to get me in the ballpark, but then it's even dimmer yet. So, I'm thinking about getting DSLRFocus and trying it out with my laptop. Does anyone have any experience with that to let me know how easy or difficult it is to focus that way? Or are there other/better options I should think about? I have an Orion SkyView Pro 6EQ scope. I know they make a motorized focus controller for it. I don't know how precise it is, but I've thought about that too so I could theoretically make finer adjustments. Any help/suggestions anyone could provide would be greatly appreciated. I've managed to get a few widefield shots, but really nothing prime focus or afocal due to problems focusing. Thanks! -Bill

I'm debating the pros and cons of the Rigel QuickFinder and the Telrad. I like the fact that you can get maps with the Telrad circles on it, that sounds fantastic and it has the extra circle the Rigel doesn't. But I like the fact that the Rigel comes with the pulsating, dimming, dew shield, and extra base. Those items cost more for the Telrad. I also like the smaller size of the Rigel, and the price. I think I'm leaning toward trying the Rigel. I figure if I decide to go with the Telrad later, I can always resell one here.

Now I hope this isn't a really stupid question, but I'm a beginner so I'm going to ask anyway. Depending on which direction I'm looking, I am constantly rotating the tube so I can see in the eyepiece comfortably. Where/how do I mount the Rigel so that I don't have to sit under the telescope to site things in half the time? Do you know what I mean? My thought was to put a base on each side and move the Rigel as needed, but maybe I'm doing something wrong and there is some ideal location/rotation to use.
Thanks, Bill

You shot that with a DRebel and zoom lens!?! Very nice. I've been considering an DSLR, but haven't talked myself (or my checkbook) into it yet. How long was that exposure? What's the longest exposure you've shot with an acceptable noise level?