Posts Made By: Rob Greaves

What would you recommend? This is to use with an RCOS 12.5".

I can't stretch to an STL11000 before anyone recommends one.

Since the two subject cameras are about the same price, it's the old trade-offs now. FOV vs QE and sensitivity.

My main imaging aims are nebulae in both RGB, Ha and narrowband, followed by galaxies and globulars.

The ST10XME seems to have a good QE at Ha, and the STL4020 a poor one. But conversely I can achieve a much bigger FOV with the STL.

Conversely, I already have a CFW8 and an AO-7.

Decisions decisions...

Any ideas?

Thanks,
Jess.

Please can anyone help - I understand the AP 0.67x reducer has to be somehow recessed into the AO7 body to reach the correct spacing of 5" from reducer to CCD.

I have seen Russ Croman's (etc) instructions for getting the AO7 body modified, then a new lens cell for the reducer, to interface the whole thing to the FIA (Fixed Instrument Adaptor) on an RCOS.

This is all well and good, but I need to retain the 2" push fit facility for use on my refractors.

Any advice on how to get the AP reducer into the imaging train without too much hassle would be appreciated.

Thanks - Rob & Jess

Please can anyone advise the diameter of the fully illuminated image circle of the 8" LX200R OTA?

...And for that matter, the 10" also.

Thanks - Jess

Hello all,

I'm trying to determine the thread size on the FS60C lens cell, in order to get a holder machined for an energy rejection filter. (This is the thread that the dew shield screws onto).

I *think* it might be M77 x 1.0.

Any advances on that?

Thanks - Jess.

Hi - hopefully someone can help.

I'm trying to find what the fully illuminated image circle is like on the LX200R OTA's, with regards to illuminating an STL11000 sensor.

Is there vignetting? Are stars sharp to the corners?

Are there any sample STl/LX200R images on the web anywhere?

Thanks - Rob & Jess

Hi,

I noticed my Coronado BF10 blocking filter is giving slightly 'muted' images on one side of the field of view. On closer inspection, looking down the metal nosepiece end, some marking is visible on the inside of the filter. On unscrewing the plastic (female) part of the BF10 diagonal to examine it more easily, I was able to see the inside of the filter glass on the metal (male) nosepiece part. There appears to be a creamy coloured marking on a portion of the perimeter.

Hopefully the attached image shows the marking I've found, from a picture taken looking in from the removed female plastic part of the diagonal. The creamy coloured marking is visible on the edge of the filter from about the 7 o'clock to the 3 o'clock position.

Can anyone advise what this marking is, or advise on any chemical solutions (Isopropyl alcohol etc.) to attempt to clean this part of the filter?

Obviously this is an expensive piece of kit and I don't want to damage it un-necessarily.

Any advice most welcome.

Thanks - Jess

EDIT: On closer inspection, the staining is in between glass elements. Disassembly would be required to get to the staining. I called Coronado/Meade USA who said speak to Meade Europe. Meade Europe say nothing they can do, speak to Coronado/Meade USA. I'm stuck! UK is a great place to live but not when it comes to telescope gear.

Hi Joplin

Is your Pentax mount designed to work in the Southern hemishere also? ie. will it run backwards?

Thanks...

Alonso, not AlonZo 8)