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Started by fblue, 01/10/2010 11:27PM
Posted 01/10/2010 11:27PM Opening Post
I now have a camera that weighs a lot more than my original ST2000 with filter wheel. So, the focuser a 2" Feathertouch is being over taxed I believe. There is a little sag or flexure in the draw tube under these heavy loads.

Now, I can buy a 3" Fethertouch and a new adapter for my AT8RC for about $700. The other possible fix would be a longer mounting plate that would extend under the focuser and allow the use of a Guide Ring that would support the focuser in the same way that I did my guide scope as seen in the photo attached. This plate I could make myself or purchase, depending on whether I care about anodizing or not. I have made a few plates before out of 3/8" and 1/2" x 4" 6061 aluminum that is available locally for about $2 a pound, might cost $8-10 for a 24" piece.

I have seen this type of plate and support for a camera before, but not necessarily quite the same, some had some form of clamp affair. But the Guide Ring would allow the three screws to clamp onto the field flattener or the draw tube and support the rear of the draw tube, which should make it pretty solid.

I am wondering what you all think about the two solutions?

Attached Image:

fblue's attachment for post 49690

[SIZE="Large"][/SIZE][COLOR="Blue"][/COLOR] Floyd Blue grin
Amateur Imager
Posted 01/10/2010 11:39PM #1
Well, Floyd, there is a third option: buy the new 10" RC with a 3" focuser that just came out and that way you won't have to buy a new feathertouch or make anything yourself. Problem solved! grin
Posted 01/11/2010 02:56PM #2
Floyd, If you could get the support ring aligned perfectly, I think that would be the way to go. It seems like something you can do for less money and possibly get really good results. I would give that a try.
Cheers,
Tyler

"The expression of the beautiful is in direct ratio to the power of perception acquired by the artist." (Gustave Courbet)
Posted 01/11/2010 03:07PM | Edited 01/11/2010 04:48PM #3
Floyd:

I'm not sure I understand the rail/support ring idea. If the support ring clamps to the camera side of the draw tube, (as shown with your guide scope), then each time you focus don't you have to loosen the clamp screws, focus and then re-tighten the screws? Otherwise you would have to implement the support ring on your main scope with a very good sliding bearing so the drawtube and camera can move fore and aft relative to the support plate when you focus. I suppose this is no big deal on the guide refractor, because if you are like me you seldom have re-focus the guiding system.

On your main camera, if you must loosen the ring, focus, tighten the ring, image, etc. that seems like a real pain, and it would eliminate the possibility of an automated periodic focusing software routine if you decided to do that later.

Let me know if I am missing a key conceptual point.

Jim